The Holidays are upon us.....

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Woven Jacquard Fabric

The fabrics I use are Woven Jacquard.  This is what gives it the depth and beauty that no other type of fabric does.  So many of my customers ask me "What is woven jacquard?"  that I decided to look it up in Wikapedia.  Following is the history of Woven Jacquard.  I find it fascinating and hope you do too.

Jacquard weaving

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

FourHattersley looms with the distinctive Jacquard head

Jacquard looms in the Textile Department of the Strzemiński Academy of Fine Arts in Lodz, Poland.

Weaving on a jacquard loom with a flying shuttle at the Textile Department of the Strzemiński Academy of Fine Arts in Lodz, Poland.

Jacquard weaving makes possible in almost any loom the programmed raising of eachwarp thread independently of the others. This brings much greater versatility to the weavingprocess, and offers the highest level of warp yarn control. This mechanism is probably one of the most important weaving inventions as Jacquard shedding made possible the automatic production of unlimited varieties of pattern weaving. The term "Jacquard" is not specific or limited to any particular loom, but rather refers to the added control mechanism that automates the patterning.

Contents   [hide]  1 History 2 Mechanical Jacquard looms 3 Electronic Jacquard looms 4 See also 5 References

[edit]History

In former times if figured designs were required, this was done on a drawloom. The heddleswith warp ends to be pulled up were manually selected by a second operator (draw boy), apart from the weaver. It was slow and labour intensive, with practical limitations on the complexity of the pattern.

The first important improvement of the draw loom took place in 1725, when Basile Bouchonintroduced the principal of applying a perforated band of paper. A continuous roll of paper was punched by hand, in sections, each of which represented one lash or tread, and the length of the roll was determined by the number of shots in each repeat of pattern. The Jacquard machine subsequently evolved from this.

The Jacquard process and the necessary loom attachment are named after their inventor,Joseph Marie Jacquard (1752–1834). He recognized that although weaving was intricate, it was repetitive, and saw that a mechanism could be developed for the production of sophisticated patterns just as it had been done for the production of simple patterns.

It is difficult to determine what part of the 'Jacquard' machine, Jacquard himself designed. He may have combined the best mechanical elements of other inventors, but at any rate the machine he made must have differed from its predecessors in arrangement and minor working details. It was similar in most general principles to Vaucanson's arrangement, except that he made use of Jean-Baptiste Falcon's individual paste board cards and his square prism or card 'cylinder', which he is credited with having fully perforated on each of its four sides in lieu of Vaucanson's perforated 'barrel'. Jacquard's machine also contained eight rows of needles and uprights as compared with Vaucanson's double row, which modifications enabled him to increase the figuring capacity of the machine. In his first machine he supported the harness by knotted cords, which he elevated by a single trap board.

One of the chief advantages which was claimed for the Jacquard machine was that, previously in weaving damasks the figuring shed was usually drawn once for every four shots, with the new apparatus it could be drawn on every shot, thus producing a fabric with greater definition of outline.^[1]

Jacquard's invention had a deep influence on Charles Babbage. In that respect, he is viewed by some authors as a precursor of modern computing science.^[2]

A punch for Jacquard cards

Following the pattern, holes are punched in the appropriate places on a jacquard card at The Department of Textile Art at Strzemiński Academy of Fine Arts in Łódź,Poland.

[edit]Mechanical Jacquard looms

Punched cards in use in a Jacquard loom.

Originally the Jacquard machines were mechanical, and the fabric design was stored in a series of punched cards which were joined together to form a continuous chain. The Jacquards often were small and only independently controlled a relatively few warp ends. This required a number of repeats across the loom width. Larger capacity machines, or the use of multiple machines, allowed greater control, with fewer repeats, and hence larger designs to be woven across the loom width.

A factory must choose looms and shedding mechanisms to suit its commercial requirements. As a rule the more warp control required the greater the expense. So it is not economical to purchase Jacquard machines if one can make do with a dobby mechanism. As well as the capital expense, the Jacquard machines are more costly to maintain, as they are complex and require higher skilled personnel; an expensive design system is required to prepare the designs for the loom, and possibly a card-cutting machine. Weaving is more costly since Jacquard mechanisms are more liable to produce faults than dobby or cam shedding. Also, the looms will not run as fast and down time will increase as it takes time to change the continuous chain of cards when a design changes. For these reasons it is best to weave larger batch sizes with mechanical Jacquards.

[edit]Electronic Jacquard looms

Bonas Machine Company Ltd.^[3] launched the first electronic Jacquard at ITMA,^[4] Milan in 1983. Although the machines were initially small, modern technology has allowed Jacquard machine capacity to increase significantly, and single end warp control can extend to more than 10,000 warp ends. This avoids the need for repeats and symmetrical designs and allows almost infinite versatility. The computer-controlled machines significantly reduce the down time associated with changing punched paper designs, thus allowing smaller batch sizes. However, electronic Jacquards are costly and may not be required in a factory weaving large batch sizes, and smaller designs. The larger machines allowing single end warp control are very expensive, and can only be justified where great versatility is required, or very specialized design requirements need to be met. For example, they are an ideal tool to increase the ability and stretch the versatility of the niche linen Jacquard weavers who remain active in Europe and the West, while most of the large batch commodity weaving has moved to low cost areas.

Linen products associated with Jacquard weaving are linen damask napery, Jacquard apparel fabrics and damask bed linen.

Jacquard weaving of course uses all sorts of fibers and blends of fibers, and it is used in the production of fabrics for many end uses. Research is under way to develop layered and shaped items as reinforcing components for structures made from composite materials.

Congratulations Tracey Gray-Miles!  You won the drawing from those who posted comments and/or photos about your new Sandra's Satchels handbag!  I want to thank those of you who participated in this drawing.  I continue to encourage comments and ideas!

Karen Emailed this feedback

Karen purchased Mini's like these at The Pike Place Market a few weeks ago.   Thank you, Karen for allowing me to share your feedback.

"Love the idea of a jewelry roll. When I travel, I wind up tossing a couple necklaces in a little bag - and invariably they get twisted and tangled. If you can design one that will prevent that, I'll be first in line!

Meant to tell you that my writing group loved their "mobile office" satchels at Christmas. But my camera went on the fritz when I made everyone pose for a photo to send you. Sorry. Just know, though, they loved them."

---Karen

Upcoming New Product

By far, our most requested product request at our shop at The Pike Place Market is a Jewelry Roll.  I have noticed, upon researching this item, that there are no existing Jewelry Rolls available in the type of high end woven jacquard fabrics for which Sandra's Satchels is known.

I would love to have your feedback about what you would like in a Jewelry Roll by Sandra.

In order to have a say in what I will create, please offer your ideas here or on my Facebook Page at:  http://www.facebook.com/sandrassatchels.

Valentine's Day

Valentine's Day is right around the corner.  I have always believed this is a great time to do something nice for someone else.  (Sometimes the pressure to buy that special gift is a bit much).  An unexpected gift for a friend, or something I might like for myself makes the day "Sweet".

To see all the choices priced at $12 for a coin purse to $74 for a laptop sleeve in a wide array of fabric choices go to:  http://www.sandrassatchels.etsy.com.  Sign up on the form to the right to receive monthly notifications for:  Giveaways, contests, drawings, free shipping discounts, new fabrics and new items.  This is a secure sign up form and you may unsubscribe at any time.

Speeding Around The World in Under 5 minutes Time Lapse

Fun Fashion Blog-Paisley Print Shoes

Check out this fashion blog by two sisters.  They are featuring my glasses cases:  http://www.paisleyprintshoes.com/?p=3129

First Annual January Sale at Pike Place Market

    CHOOSE FROM OVER 130 SELECTED ITEMS AT $40% OFF    

THIS IS A SMALL SAMPLING.  I'M CLEANING HOUSE!

JOIN THE FUN (AT PIKE PLACE MARKET ONLY)  STARTING 1/3/12

I have two of this Large Adobe without the pocket.  You can still buy zipper bags at regular price to accessorize.

Adobe Berry Large - $55 (40%off - $33)

   Marracech Fabric.  Only one of these regularly $55, now $33.----->  

Red/Orange Large - $55 (40% Off - $33)

There are two of the Red/Orange and also two mediums.  Mediums are $45, but after 40% Discount - $27.00.
Have two smalls in this fabric - Regularly $35, but after 40% Discount - $21
3 makeup @ 40% off - $10.80, 1 glasses case @40% off - $9
3 coin purses @40% off - $7.20

Large Double Pocket Fence - $68 (40% Off - $40.80)

Repeat Dot Large Double Pocket - Regularly $68 - @40% Off  $40.80)

 Regularly $45 @40% Off $27 

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             

Red/Orange Coin Purse - $12 - (40% Off - $7.20)

This Pinstripe in Glasses & Makeup Only

Price $55  @40% Off, $33 (only one of these)

Glasses Case $15 - @40% $9

 I wish you a New Year filled with blessings and joy!!  Thank you for visiting my handbag boutique  on  Etsy and at The Pike Place Market.I value your patronage.  :) 

Free Shipping for December

Be sure to add the Coupon Code:  FREESHIPPING when you shop at http://www.sandrassatchels.etsy.com during the month of December.  To be sure your item is received by the holidays, you must place your order no later than December 17th.

I'm off to New York for the holidays with my family on the 19th so place your orders early.

I'll be happy to wrap, and send your purchase directly to the recipient, and .add a note you choose (in the notes to buyers field).

We have a wide range of prices, from $12 to $141.

Enjoy the Season!!

Winner of the November Drawing

Congratulations, Glenn Wolfe!  You won the Travel Zipper Pouch in the Classic Pinstripe!  Choose the Color.

This beautiful fabric is 16% Wool, 56% Cotton and 28% Polyester.  Our high end woven jacquard fabrics, used to beautify interiors, make wonderful, functional handbags and purses.  They are extremely durable, have a stain resistant, water resistant, moisture resistant mold resistant finish, ideal for this purpose.  Click here to see the listing on my website:  http://www.etsy.com/listing/85240406/high-fashion-jumbo-zipper-pouches-for

We had 35 names in our drawing this month and I want to thank all those who participated.  We'll be doing another drawing the first of the year.

Be sure to sign up for our newsletter if you haven't already done so.

Sandra

December 1st Drawing

Let's do it one more time!  I love doing the drawings and I hope you like the opportunity to receive a free gift if your name is drawn.  This is the third month that I have put the names of those who order for the month for a chance to win a free gift.  I love the new Travel Zipper Pouch, also designed to carry your cords etc, for your MacBook Pro 13 or Air 13.  Choose from Brick, Fawn, Black or Brown.

The Winner of the Drawing for October

Congratulations, Elaine Friedman!  You won this months "Drawing"!

For those of you who receive my monthly newsletter, be sure to watch for the November offerings coming out this week!  If you are not receiving my newsletters, sign up on the secure form here.

Quote for the Day

"Great things are done by a series of small things brought together"
Vincent van Gogh

Sandra's Satchels Featured in Lushlee.com

Lushlee's Blog is a work of art.  So thrilled to be featured in one of their posts.  Go take a look!  http://www.lushlee.com/2010/04/handmade-love-bags-purses/

November 1st Drawing

October online purchases will be entered into this drawing for The Obsidian Travel Pouch.  A great clutch or travel makeup bag.  A $24 value.  Each order will be entered into this drawing which will take place on November 1st and announced here at 9a.m. Pacific time.  (Don't forget to "Fall back")

And The Winner Is......

Thank you to all those who participated by placing an order this month!  The Winner of this months drawing is 

Cathy Dwyer from Belmont, NC.  You will receive the beautiful Plural Henna coin purse and glasses case set!   This drawing was so successful, that I plan to do another one which will be announced in my Newsletter which is going out next week.   Check back here for a photo of the item which will be given away to next month's winner.  All orders will be placed in the drawing.  Stay tuned...

The Drawing

In order to give every one an opportunity to get in on the September drawing, I am changing the time to Saturday, the 1st of October at 11:00 am Seattle time rather than 8:00pm Seattle time tonight to announce the winner.  I want everyone who orders through September 30th to have a chance to win.  Your name will be entered for each item you purchase.

I will notify the winner via email, and that winner's name will then be listed on this blog tomorrow.

Good Luck! :)

Drawing Giveaway Details

All orders placed on http://www.sandrassatchels.etsy.com between now and the 30th of September, will be entered into the drawing for the Henna Coin Purse and Glasses Case pictured below.  The "Winner" will be announced on this blog at 8:00 pm Seattle time on September 30th.